Horse palace remembered

 There were a couple dozen polo fields in and around Los Angeles, but this was my favorite, at Clay’s showplace ranch in the Valley. Clay was my best friend, and the place was like a second home to me. Its ranch was cozy in the winter and cool in the summer, its riding trails familiar as the back of my hand, its memories of summers and holidays precious. I even kept my own horse here in the lavish stable he had built last year, which I called his horse palace. 

– Starcrossed, work-in-progress, by Deb McCaskey

2025 Deb McCaskey

The barn at Will Rogers State Historic Park, from a visit in 2022.

As I write, wildfires are raging in Los Angeles County, with fire crews just starting to get them contained. Whole neighborhoods have been leveled, the destruction described as looking like a bomb had hit. More than 100,000 residents are under evacuation orders, and at least 11 people so far are known to have died. The last estimate placed damages at as much as $150 billion. Both of those numbers will, we know, go up.

Meanwhile, opportunistic and shameless politicians and supposed “leaders” have been flinging around unfounded accusations about what caused the fires or made them harder to fight – but since this site and blog are not for political purposes, that’s as much as I’ll say about that.

Here in northern California, and around the world, people are worried for their families and friends who live in the southern part of the state. Los Angeles has residents who originally came from – well, everywhere. And no matter where you live, you’ve seen many Los Angeles locations in hundreds of movies and TV shows. So I think these fires feel somehow personal to many of us, no matter where we are.

I’m finding it hard to comprehend the magnitude of what’s happening. We drove through LA just last month, on our way to San Diego. In 2022 and 2023 we went on research trips there, our schedule packed with visits to museums, historic buildings, and neighborhoods I’m using in my novels.

My stories – one published, one being written – take place in the 1930s. One entertaining challenge in research has been to find places from that era that haven’t been torn down in a city that took a long time to appreciate its own history. Many of those sites are in downtown Los Angeles, which hasn’t been in the fires’ paths.

But many historic buildings have been destroyed. My favorite, of all the sites we have visited, was among them. The house and stables at Will Rogers State Historic Park have been lost

A couple of posts ag0 (scroll down), I wrote about our visit there, where the guide was happy to answer our every question and seemed surprised and delighted that we knew so much about a celebrity cowboy who had died so long ago. It was wonderful to know that Will Rogers’ widow had donated it to the state park system so that later generations could step back in time and see how he had lived.

When I heard the fires had reached the park, I hoped it was just the hills and brush nearby. When I heard the fire had destroyed the house, I hoped the stables had survived. But they too burned.

As I mentioned in the earlier post, I modeled the ranch of my heroine’s singing-cowboy friend on the Rogers place: the cozy ranch house, the view of the polo field from the front porch, the stable with its covered circular ring. The main difference was that Clay West’s imaginary ranch is in the San Fernando Valley, and the real-life Rogers ranch is in Pacific Palisades. 

In this post I wanted to share some photos of the “horse palace,” one of the nicest old stables I’ve ever seen. Wings of stalls extended from a rotunda where horses could be saddled and groomed and even ridden indoors in bad weather. It was airy and open and welcoming.

2024 Deb McCaskey

Above, clockwise from top left: stable aisle with a glimpse of the circular ring; the rotunda ceiling and skylight; more stalls; a view of the barn on the road up from the ranch house.

The stables and house captured the imaginations and affection of many lovers of horses and history. I’m glad I have the memories from our visit, and that so many photos, taken by so many photographers over many years, still exist. They’re all we have left. It’s much too early for any thoughts of possible restoration.

Architectural plans and some great photos from Rogers’ time are on the state parks page about the stable, along with a quote from his son, Will Rogers, Jr.:

“This was the horse center of our ranch – this was the reason that Dad bought the ranch, and the large price so that he could have horses, so he could have polo, so he could have his roping, so he could have his relaxation. And if you do not see the stables, you really have not seen one of the major purposes of my father’s purchasing this place…you can only get an impression of this place if you go up and visit the stables, because that was the center of activity when my father was here.” 

Long time no see

2024 Deb McCaskey
The Bronson Caves. You’ve seen them – a lot

Wow. Where did 2024 go?

For that matter, where did the rest of 2023 go? 

Can it really be that the last time I wrote a post it was exactly a year ago?

Well, yes. Yes, it can.

What’ve I been doing besides writing for this website? 

Life. You know.

Actually I’ve been proving beyond a doubt that the old saying is absolutely true: You can be busier after you retire than when you were working.

I have also learned something else about retirement that explains why so many of us are busier, and wondering how we got anything done while still working: Friends.

Generally one retires at an advanced age – and believe me I know just how lucky I am to be able to retire. In this country with the economy and government we have, many people just can’t. So, gratitude. A lot of it. 

Retired or not, when you reach your late sixties and early seventies, you realize your roller coaster has just topped that first big hill and has paused long enough for you to contemplate your fate. You realize that from here on, it’s all downhill, with some unexpected and stomach-lurching turns and drops before the ride is over.

I don’t care much for roller coasters.

The difference between life and roller coasters is that you don’t tend to lose fellow passengers along the way. Life is more like a thrill ride that’s out of control and where the people around you start flying out of their seats, never to be seen again, often when you least expect it. 

OK, enough with the metaphors. What I’m talking about is friends. You see them getting older and older, dealing with more and more difficulties, and you realize they are not always going to be there to call, visit, lift a glass with. If you’re lucky enough to have gotten to this age without losing most of them, you still know there is no guarantee any of you will still be around tomorrow, or next week, or next year.

So you make as much space as you can to see those folks you care about. Each minute becomes precious and you prioritize time together.

That said, I actually have been working on the new book, which will be called Starcrossed. I’m very close to having a first draft completed – which means there’s still a lot of editing ahead. Progress, slow progress, is happening.

We’ve also done more research travel, so I’ll catch up here with a bit more from our 2023 trips. Starting with …

The Bronson Caves

Anyone interested in filming locations wants to see the Bronson Caves. They’ve been used in hundreds of movies and TV shows, usually as part of a remote wilderness area, and sometimes as a whole other planet. Star Trek, Batman, The Lone Ranger, Combat!, Gunsmoke, The Searchers, Flash Gordon, Hail, Caesar! …the caves offer a lot of shooting possibilities just a short drive from most studios.

2024 Deb McCaskey

One of the most famous scenes is from The Searchers (1956), where John Wayne’s character finally catches up with his niece, played by Natalie Wood, and you think he’s going to kill her, but – OK, no spoilers from me, even with a movie that old.

Anyway, it looks as though they’re somewhere near a vast prairie or desert. But that’s because in the finished film, scenes of actual vast wilderness – which might be hundreds or thousands of miles away – are edited together with scenes of the caves so it all looks like one setting. Movie magic!

And remember the old Batman TV show? Guess where the entrance to the Batcave was shot.

2024 Deb McCaskey

In reality, the Bronson Caves are not in a true wilderness and are not caves. They’re a couple of short tunnels, the remains of an early 20th-century rock quarry, and are in Griffith Park, just across the I-5 from Glendale. The caves are a shortish hike from the parking lot. 

Even though it’s not wilderness, the first thing we saw after leaving our car was a small pack of coyotes trotting down the street. Two kept on their way while another stopped to look at us briefly before joining its friends. Hollywood coyotes.

We shared the road to the caves with only a few other hikers, all from out of town (we asked), but by the time we got there we had the place to ourselves. It’s pretty quiet if no film crews are around.

2024 Deb McCaskey

Not many hikers actually went to the caves – there are other things to do in the park – but as we approached, a group of boys came through the tunnel, talking animatedly. Nice kids. I couldn’t help but wonder if they were scouting locations for their own movie, like young Spielbergs. We poked around, admired the way the light came in, and discovered the stone labyrinth beyond the caves’ back entrance.

It’s easy to picture the scenes from familiar movies and shows, once you’re standing in the caves, and they do exert a certain pull on the imagination. Even when you’re right there, and you can see how small and non-wild they actually are, it’s like when a magician shows you how one of their tricks works.

You see what’s behind the illusion. And yet, you still want to believe.